• AgsAreUsB
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    1
    ·
    10 months ago

    Nice. Which tutorial did you follow? I’ve seen a few on the web.

  • Things2021B
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    1
    ·
    10 months ago

    Looks good.

    For anyone else out there thinking about doing this…the most dangerous part of this job was soldering those wires onto the batteries. That is about the only dumb thing I see here.

    The required heat to get the solder to flow means the batteries get hot. Not typically a good idea to be standing over something you are heating past it’s max.

    This requires something called a spot welder. Op chose risk over $. It’ll be better just just buy a ups if you don’t have a spot welder.

    • Harenraj56OPB
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      1
      ·
      10 months ago

      That’s why I used battery holders and soldered wires into holders.Then inserted batteries into holders.

      • Things2021B
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        1
        ·
        10 months ago

        I see it looks like they are soldered to the batteries. Great work…good project

  • chris480B
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    1
    ·
    10 months ago

    Which part of this is ups circuit? Does it switch over to battery, or load sharing?

    • Harenraj56OPB
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      1
      ·
      10 months ago

      Instant switch between battery and grid power because of 1N5822 Schottky diode. Circuit is very simple. Main 15v dc (positive) with 1n5822 connected directly to output switch. 15v dc connected to xl4015 board red one. Xl4015 connected to bms input output points. BMS’s extra input output connected to XL6019 boost converter. Xl6019 output with 1N5822 diode connected with switch n output. I recommend adding a extra switch between XL4015 output with bms connection .