One year playing mostly plugged and sometimes docked, no issue whatsoever.

Have you set up a custom sleep/wakeup movie? Set it back to default.

It’s much faster to Synchthing locally the gamesaves folders.

You keep your deck and PC on under the same network and Synchthing will do the deed syncing the gamesaves to the most recent on both devices.

Well, the Spigen armor carry case is neat - but the top is mesh so you should get a couple of thumbstick locker thingies.

I think LTT nailed the design for silicone ones, try and see if they are not expensive in your area, or get some knockoffs (there are few designs in silicone, all works and grab on almost all kind of thumbsticks, be it controllers or steam deck).

Try typing with the trackpads, take a moment to kick in but once you get it it’s addictive.

Also using the touchscreen itself can be a bandaid fix.

If you use the deck docked, those flimsy little controller keyboards might do the deed (keep in mind to double check your keyboard pairing instructions and pair them in desktop mode first - some need to type on the keyboard itself a code shown onscreen on the deck).

There’s a small albeit concrete risk that if the adhesive layer is poor quality, it will trap air or not be optically clear and cause some color aberration.

Also it will be slightly harder to rip off if you need to remove it due to the microroughness of the etched surface.

Nothing that can’t be solved by peeling it off, just be gentle.

HARDER!

GET METAL HELLSLINGER

The only answer to that is to get literally hands on a deck and try.

See if you find one at a GameStop or a friendly fella which allow you to try it, or swallow the cost and order it from Valve, try it, and keep tabs on the return window.

PLAY HARD

Just use it. It will wear down with time.

Try to import again an existing game and see if it work.

Adding a duplicate entry will inconvenience you also with more space used, but if it works, you have at least a lead.

What if you crank up default haptic feedback? (It’s the touchpads making the sound :)) )

More than that, it will basically fill the gaps on the screen surface with glue altering the light scattering.

Most it can happen is that you think it sucks, and you will eventually spend a lot of time rubbing to bring it back to original conditions.

70% isopropyl is fine since it’s glass, not a spray finish (at least on the LCD deck) but remember

DO NOT SPRAY ANY KIND OF LIQUID DIRECTLY ON THE SCREEN

I REPEAT NEVER SPRAY DIRECTLY ON THE SCREEN

Glass can withstand it but if a given amount of liquid seeps trough the screen edges, it might cause delamination of the screen or pocket of fluids under the screen glass surface

Just get lint free paper napkins or a microfiber cloth, spray moderately on it (if the cloth seems moist to the leaking point just squish it hard in your hand, it will redistribute the cleaning fluid) and then rub.

You will not rip glass shards from the screen.

But the glue from the dust removal sticker will really, really love to grab and stay on the microscopic crevices on the etched glass surface.

Same goes for the glue of the screen protector.

Do you have a custom sleep/wakeup animation?

Yup it works. You can bind keyboard keys to buttons, and use the right trackpad as mouse effortlessly.

From great freedom comes great responsibility :))

You should be good.

I would suggest to put the original drive back if you are under warranty. They might choose to swap the deck to a new or refurb unit depending on availability for their convenience, and they will not (usually) swap your non original drive in.

Just fess up everything upfront when opening the ticket.

It will make the experience smoother, and they will treat you nicer if you don’t try to bamboozle them.

You might evaluate if it’s worth to slap a vesa mount adapter like the Deckmate on your deck and find a monitor arm that works for your usual gaming spot.

Driving anchors into a wall is a commitment, if you have one of those monitor arms that clamps on your desk yet it might be worth a shot.

If you’re slightly into metalworking and have a gaming chair, I think it can be adapted to be bolted on the base of one of the chair armrests without impairing the normal chair use (you can fold it behind the chair back when not in use).

I think the most suitable monitor arms for your scenario would be those ones with a gas piston. They usually have a screw to fine tune the upward force of the arm, you should be able to reach a “neutral buoyancy” point where your deck weight is turned to zero.

Your problems don’t mean you can’t enjoy gaming, you just need to find the right way :)

Had a similar issue trying to see how Amazon Luna worked on Chrome.

I needed to

flatpak --user override --filesystem=/run/udev:ro com.google.Chrome

in Konsole.

You should try

flatpak --user override --filesystem=/run/udev:ro com.microsoft.Edge

That command opens the permission to have read only access to /run/udev, which should enable the browser to see the built-in (or any connected for what is worth) controller input.