The boost isn’t huge. It’s within 2-3 FPS in most places I’ve seen vids of any difference. Sometimes there isn’t much or any difference.

But with the higher refresh rate, it will feel smoother. Because with frame-doubling/tripling, depending on how much FPS you are getting or are capped at, your screen will be refreshing twice or three times per frame; which will feel better to your brain/eyes.

Well, I thought that issue was fixed because I haven’t had a crash in ages. But it’s possible that it’s a mix of not being as bad as it used to be, plus my work-around from way back still being in place.

So of course, you know that the game crashes when the memory leak eventually fills up the memory and you run out.

But a long time ago, when it was so bad that it would crash in 10 minutes, I did a work around which involved simply increasing the swap size to 64 GB (or 32GB… i forget, whichever was the max selection in cryoutils). This way, my usually sessions (1-2 hours) would be shorter than it would take the game to run out of memory with that swap size.

Like another commenter said, the UbiConnect client is the culprit. And turning off the in-game overlay by opening it in desktopmode and changing the settings would help. Also be sure to use Proton Experimental or Proton Hotfix as your selected Compatibility layer.

I have both the UbiSoft Connect version and the Steam version installed, and both work fine for me these days.

The whole OS seems so damn thought through

Go to the file explorer, open a directory; let’s say the "home
directory. Make the size column visible. What’s this? It says how many items are in it. Now sort by size. What? It’s sorting by how many ITEMS are in the directory, not the actual storage size of the contents?

Remember:

The whole OS seems so damn thought through

Now try saying that again…

It’s a robust and customizable OS, yes. But there are ton of things that are counter-intuitive, or require more than the average casual computer user should need to do. I can use it, but I wouldn’t give a non-techy family member that OS to use.

Personally find the dock form-factor unnecessary; especially when your case has a kickstand.

I have a small USB-C hub I keep in my sling bag pocket, it’s way slimmer and more portable (ie. you don’t need to “make room” for a hub in your bag; it just slides in wherever; even in your jeans pocket).

I initially used it in the sling-bag bare with the screen facing the back, before I got my case. But now I use the case you see in these pics; feels more comfortable since I can orient it any way now.

The protective case is listed at $19 now, but it often drops on sale for $8.36 US; it was a few days ago even.

Some other links to the lanyard tabs I used for the straps.

Kodi is a media player that supports a plethora of plug-ins for various things.

• GIMP Image Editor comes in handy. The key-binds are clunky AF tho to my photoshop-brain; still getting used to it. But it’s nice to be able to do some quick edits of images/screenshots etc before posting or using.
• Spotify. Nice to have music playing in the background while playing games. There is a Decky Loader plugin that will let you control it via the Quick Access Menu.
• Discord. Handy for community oriented games etc. Or just group chat in or outside of games.
• Google Chrome, Web Browser; typing this in Chrome on the Deck right now…
• Transmission, File transfer/download client.
• Kodi, for any media files or watching movies, and also handy for playing Decky Recorder clips back.

Have to repost this because apparently the ridiculous auto-prune bot flags/removes mentions of a valid file transfer protocol.

Do you know if using Kodi in Gaming mode works for HDR content?

I use Kodi in gaming mode all the time for playing media. I don’t have an OLED though; so I can’t test.

I know I’ll likely never purchase a headless console (ie. one that NEEDS a seperate display) ever again lol; and being locked into their closed eco systems and platform tax is good riddance.

And won’t buy a laptop again for a long time unless it’s for something work-related.

Carrying around my Steam Deck in a casual sling-bag is all I need with me; for gaming or general computer use. And when I am at home, using a USB-C hub to my TV/Monitor is perfect too.

I used Stadia before and that streaming tech, convenience, and accessible it was amazing, and better than the rest; Google’s poor management of the platform business model not withstanding. Steam Deck was more expensive than I wanted initially, but I don’t regret all that I gained in the transition.

If you make a post and get an answer, you should not delete your post; so other people who search may find the thread if they search for something similar problems.

Very nice, thanks for the testing.

Did you run each test multiple times? Because I’ve seen those results of benchmarks change even when you run the same settings back to back.

I just use a long USB-C extension connected to a USB-C Hub (Hub behind TV, USB-C extension makes the Steam Deck like a wired controller). Because I can no longer stand not having access to dual-trackpads.

Division is an online/server-based game, so progress revolves around checkpoints, and completions of missions etc.

You’ve not really articulated the circumstances of your problem. Like the middle of a story being left out.

What mission are you on, is it early in the game? Are you completing the mission objectives and it is not progressing? Or do you just not know what the objective to progress the mission is?

As a tip, a trick I use whenever I cannot locate the files for a sneaky proton install, is do like an open/locate or something in the app, and while the open dialog is there, right click and create a new directory; name it something extremely unique.

Then do a search for that in the Dolphin file explorer.

From the vids I have seen, you can just lift the shield with the ribbon still attached to get at the SSD. ie. no need to remove it completely.

Are you referring to the 20 year old Final Fantasy 11 Online?

It runs linux under the hood yes, KDE Plasma I think. You can install native linux apps etc yes. Just boot to the desktop. There is the discover app store which has a bunch of native apps listed in there.

For android, you may need some sort of wrapper or program to make that happen idk.

• Check if there is a motion blur setting.
• Toggle VSync ON/OFF or OFF/ON. Something similar was happening in Diablo 4, and doing this reportedly fixed it for some people.
• Check if there is a Dynamic Resolution setting that may be ON

There is a million and one topics that mention this here, and on YouTube videos. A simple search will give you all the reading or watching material you need to find out proper information.

If you will be moving around with it occasionally, a protective case is a good idea. This protective case has a hard-shell cover, and a kickstand (half the reason for a “dock” form factor gone). Price = $8.36. There is also the more expensive brands like JSAUX etc which are around $30-50; but have some expanded features beyond basic protection.

The thing about a Steam Deck is that the USB-C port is on the top, so regardless of if you use a USB-C Hub, or a Dock, you still have to go through the motion of manually connecting the USB-C cable at the top. So my question is always, why pay so much extra for a “dock”.

Another detractor from the dock form (for me) is, it forces you to have everything connected to it in view. With a Hub, you can keep everything below the deck, behind the TV etc, and only have the 1 USB-C cable connecting to the Steam Deck visible. You can go either way, just my pref. Dock maybe $30-70, USB-C x-in-1 Hub $10-20

For some cheap controllers that work well, that are decently compact (not small) are the Stadia controllers. You can probably find them for cheap somewhere. I’ve had the same one for 3 years, still looks in great condition and no stick drift issues. I’ve seen some people find them in used game stores etc for $8-10 each. If buying online it will cost much more because people have clued in to them being good BT controllers. Bonus is they have orange thumbstick accents to match your LE Steam Deck, and come in black or beige.