Honestly you’re better off getting a non-wireless router and switch with sfp+ ports and back hauling them with 10gb transceivers, then just get a wifi6e AP. Microtik makes a real nice set of switches with dual sfp+ and multiple 2.5gbe ports.
Negotiating 5 gigabits was widely skipped to 10gb, which has more support than even 2.5gb.
Or skip learning what that all means and just get a wifi6e router with a 2.5gbe wan.
‘See mom!! I was researching how it happened and asking for advice!! I was hacked!! I don’t watch futa same-size vore’
I had some real severe buyers remorse getting one of those new model Fs. Hear me out. The general typing experience was astonishingly good. Honestly as a typing experience goes I couldn’t compare it to any of the hundred or so MX switches. It was just so very pleasant to type on.
But the space bar killed it for me. There was no amount of tuning I could do to make it feel less cheap and rattly than it already was. If they ever add the ability to use aftermarket stabs I will GLADLY fork over another $350-$400 to get another.
Have you tried a different cables(on both router>wall and PC>router)?
Have you tried different ports(same as above)?
Try a different router?
If Windows, go to Control Panel>Network and Internet>Network Connections>your network adapter>Propterties>Advanced>scroll down to Speed and Duplex and make sure it’s set to auto-negotiate.
Yeah it’s crazy how it all stacks up. Back when I had all my RGB on, 2x pumps, 11 fans, with the monitors on my power draw at idle was almost 200w. Power prices here aren’t great so running my gaming pc 24/7 costs me almost $100 by itself each month. Planning on cutting that down greatly with this new server.
I just nabbed an amazing deal on eBay, a Dell Precision 3420 with a Xeon e3 1270v6 for $90. Gonna make it a headless server and hoping to get it idling around 30-50 watts. For comparison my gaming rig idles at a whopping 90-120w.
The BEST WAY? Run an Ethernet cable from your main router’s lan port to a simple unmanaged network switch, then run a cable from the switch to the basement, to a new router. Name the router the same SSID(wifi name) as the main router, same password. Wired mesh done. Router models don’t usually need to be the same.