They retuned them. They’re not so much “better” or “worse,” just different. They tweaked the highs and mids differently and it’s going to be opinion which is better.

Any games that support it will have your game saves stored in the cloud and will automatically download them to your new device. Assuming you didn’t disable it.

Very good point, and clearly graphics aren’t the priority for some, as the Switch can’t even keep up with the Deck, but people play it on their TV all the time. Taking one’s entire PC library and turning it into a console experience isn’t bad either, it’s an instant game library for many.

I’ve essentially sworn off consoles, I’ll attach my Deck and other devices to a TV instead.

Start up, install game, play game. That’s it. It’s a console experience in the best sense of the word.

Here’s a hint: it’s in the name. Make sure the screen is OLED.

I own both a Deck OLED and an Ally. They’re both good devices, but with different focuses and different advantages/disadvantages.

The Ally runs Windows…which some people want. It’s also got great performance, will eat AAA games for breakfast, and has a very nice 120hz VRR screen. However, you don’t want to go very far from a battery pack or power outlet, because you’ll be lucky to get 2 hours of battery playing those AAA titles.

The OLED Deck, on the other hand, does not run Windows, so certain games that rely on certain DRM or Anti-cheat software won’t even work. Windows drivers aren’t ready for the Deck yet. The GPU is weaker than the Ally, because the Deck focuses on battery life, which is much better. Likewise the screen is lower resolution…but it’s OLED, which makes it very nice, but in different ways than the Ally’s screen. Which is better is a metter of opinion.

The OLED Deck does not have a noticable performance increase over the LCD Deck. The screen is better, and battery life is better. And if you open your Deck up a lot, the screws are much better. :)

At the very least I wish they’d offer embedded browser tabs for things like YouTube, Hulu, and Netflix.

ChimeraOS should theoretically work with Intel Arc GPUs but none of us on the team actually have an Arc GPU to test with. If you’re willing to give it a try and give us some feedback on Github or at least in r/ChimeraOS it could help others with Arc setups.

That is an innacurate description of ChimeraOS. Right now ChimeraOS “should” work with Intel Arc GPUs but because none of us have Arc GPUs to test on we can’t guarantee it.

EmuDeck. This is the way.

Realistically, people think of it for new user gaming because of the “just works” thing. Of course they also tend to recommend using the Steam flatpak, though it’s easy enough to screw up and install the native package instead and have issues. But there’s nothing wrong with suggesting a stable, “just works” distro as a base for gaming. You don’t want said base breaking after all.

Just use EmuDeck. You will have to move your keys in manually.

You can use the appimage or flatpak, but you still have to bring in your keys.

You can set the screen to dim after a certain period, that’ll help. Also, if you have an HDMI dock/dongle, as soon as it detects an HDMI cable it’ll shut off the internal screen (the external TV or monitor does NOT have to be on).

Likely it won’t be much of an issue long term but if you’re really worried about it, these measures will help.

I would use a bootable RescueZilla (or at least CloneZilla, but RescueZilla is more user friendly for people used to GUI stuff) to create a backup image of your Deck, just in case, before it leaves your person. You want to restore your data when you get your device back, or get a new device

Well, the AYANEO 2021 line used Vega GPUs, so that might be the “gen before” at least as far as GPUs. You see, the Deck uses a Zen2 CPU (current gen is Zen4) while the GPU in the Deck is RDNA2 (current gen is RDNA3). So while the CPU is 2 generations back, the GPU is only one generation back from bleeding edge. And frankly GPUs last quite a while, and CPUs aren’t the bottleneck for games, so either one not being bleeding edge isn’t even an issue.

I love the orange (it’s more orange than red) highlights on the Limited Edition. And the orange screws are easier to find when dropped, which is a nice accidental bonus. Another accidental bonus that I like but some don’t: the top LED is visible from the front through the transparent case. The case art is a nice little thing too (and it’s definitely a little thing, not a big thing). I would go for the Limited, it’s worth the extra $30. And I don’t have any dead pixels on mine.

If you aren’t noticing them while playing, do you really care? Is it worth the time without a Deck to get another one? I’m not being flippant here, you need to ask yourself if it’s worth this much effort to fix a problem you’re not even aware of during regular use.

It’s probably auto generated by region.

Bait for clicks. The LCD display has improved with the new color settings but the OLED model is still a drastic improvement in many ways, including battery life, viewing angles, and screen size. The only reason to get the LCD model right now is price. That $400 mark is hard to beat, but I think when they run out of LCD PCBs and screens we’ll see an OLED model at the $400 price point.

Same chip, same performance. If they did call it the Deck 2 the Internet would get so angry at them.