I’m wondering if they cost the pads at the factory to prevent corrosion or something, then as they start to get warm that coating cooks off.

Just a guess tbh.

While running? Likely an alternator.

I think that the convention 4 post drive on rack is different from an alignment rack. I may be wrong, but I don’t think you can convert a normal 4 post.

Ignoring the alignment part, 2-post would be better for repairs. The 4 post really limits access.

Yeah thats just not something they can do. It’s not like they can just change the mileage, not how it works.

Maybe they drove it without your consent, but I also doubt that.

Replace it with a caliper compressing tool…

You are missing a bolt, but all it does is hold that metal cover.

The crack is a BIG problem. Either a new trans. Or maybe have it welded somewhere. I’d be contacting some transmission shops. How did you do that?

Sure it didn’t hit a crank position sensor or something?

I would remove fuel pump fuse or relay, then crank until you build oil pressure. Then reinstall fuse or relay and start it up. Then bleed cooling system

Manufactuer calls for 5w30 ACEA A5/B5 or 0w30 if you live in an area with sustained cold temperatures (-22 and below)

5w30 is fine.

So if you’re willing to do the job, when they ask you say you’ll work them up a quote. Work them up a quote and give it to them. If they go for it, cool. Otherwise they realize the freebies are gone.

If you don’t want to work on it, say no in a polite manner.

Edit: As a side note I only give free labor to family and close friends, they still buy or supply parts. Your time is valuable, don’t sell yourself short.

You have good pressure on the outlet of the filter? Possible there is a clogged line post filter to rail.

Did you bleed the clutch slave and master? Are they old? It’s possibly they’re seized. I would check function, fluid, etc.

Coolant temp sensor, oil temp or pressure sensor?

That is normal.

Thanks for the update!

13 seems about right. It’s a rather complicated and in depth job, especially in an explorer due to less room. It sucks that just doing a water pump is that involved, but you get new tensioners which is good.

Just because the mechanic can do it faster, does not mean you get a deal. No matter where you go, dealer or independent shop, it’s going to be the same thing. Not to mention you authorized the repair.

Going to be checking grounds tonight. Hoping it’s not my repair, but I know better than to actually believe that.

Thanks for your help!

I did try doing a capacitive discharge as you described. No luck. All pins are good.

Thankfully if it comes to having to get the ECU sent out, I have a very reputable place for that less than a mile from my house.

Thanks for your help!

Biggest thing I’d worry about is the life/condition of the hybrid battery. Honestly I’m not sure how to check that, or if you can (Toyota tech may have an idea.)

From the few I’ve seen go out, it’s around 1500-2500 to replace/repair. So it’s not the end of the world, but something to think about.

Please tell me you got it for free, or cheap. Maybe they paid you?