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Cake day: October 19th, 2023

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  • That was the topic of the latest Jacked Ramsay’s. Mike Richman touched on some of those points on today’s Locked as well, IIRC…

    One of the conversations with JG that Danny keeps mentioning, is how bad being part of the “process” Sixers was. If you played too well they would bench you. :) It’s the idea that if the goal is to lose by 40 every night, so the franchise can someday draft someone else - No player of any years/age would want to be a part of that. :)

    As far as who might be moved by the TD, and who might be moved at the end of the season/draft, who may or may not be back in FA - That’s every team, every season. :) Most franchises don’t have 1-15 for decade. A core of 3-4 guys can be a generational dynasty, but any group of like a 8-9 playoff rotation folks might only get one year together… If that. :)


  • Like, whoever leads X counting stat gets an “award”, named after someone, 80-90% of the people actually watching the games weren’t alive yet to see actually play?

    Yeah. Why not? :)

    That is a generally insightful response the league’s tone deaf PR. :) If that’s what the NBA is going to do, then don’t half-ass it, and do it right. :)











  • Oil “consumption” / burn, is a separate issue than an external oil seep/leak. In that, it’s internal systems vs. external seals…

    If more oil is “evacuating” the system than the volume an external leak/seep could justify, the oil is being “consumed” / “burning” internally.

    It “can’t” go anywhere else… :)

    If your emission systems are functioning “correctly”, that should “burn” off those emissions by the CAT. But, the more you make any component in the system work, the more likely that specific component is to fail.

    So - At the air filter, is it oily on the incoming side? If there is evidence of a bad PCV, replace that wearable component, and retest.


  • The aftermarket parts that pop up have the petcock in the place the video u/conspiracy_troll cited. Bottom passenger side of the radiator.

    However… Like u/RickMN said - If there’s a high likelihood of that petcock breaking, removing the lower hose is a safer/less likely to break stuff way of going about it.

    Why are you “flushing the radiator”? Is this preventive maintenance, or is there an issue you are trying to identify/resolve, relating to the coolant system?



  • Call it “five” years now, and that’s only like 9K/year. So, on the regular alignment check schedule, it would be a full year, before you would get another check.

    If you get an LOF/alignment at six months, twice this year, you would have three data points/inspections for the current age of the vehicle.

    If because of age, not miles, the “rubbers” are starting to wear out, that information helps inform the decision of if you might be looking to move on to another vehicle, sooner or later. Like 2% at most of the miles have the trailer on it. Sure, additional weight/stress will exacerbate wear. But, at about five years is when you have to start doing some preventative “repair/replacement”, just for maintenance, to keep the vehicle operating at it’s best.

    Have you replaced the battery yet? Are they still the OEM tires? Average miles for a five year old vehicle would be about 65-70K, so what is the recommended maintenance for that “mileage”, given the age? Do you live in a slat corrosion/rust environment?



  • So, remote as the only electrical signal, and manual/safety release.

    Mechanically / manual release - Get some grease on the striker/bar, and slowly close the trunk. When you open it again, look to see where that grease went into the latch / lock lever. You are also looking for any wear that might suggest a misalignment. If, it could be that the latch isn’t fully locking sometimes, and a gust of wind comes up, the trunk could potentially blow open?

    Electronically / fob: As long as the passenger compartment lever is an actual manual cable lever, and not an electrical switch, then you should be able to disconnect the harness to the lock/actuator, and eliminate any electrical signal from the equation. The remote is going to activate a module, and the module itself is going to send the signal to unlock the door/doors/trunk. Eliminate a false signal from the vehicle or remote, and if it happens again, something mechanical is going on. That might keep the trunk warning on, but you can at least try and make sure that the trunk is staying closed, and/or confirm/deny a mechanical issue.