I’ve seen reports that the OLED Decks don’t like mesh wifi networks, but I don’t have a mesh network to test it with.

I had to disable 160 Mhz channelization on my router to get my Deck to connect, and some people report having to disable 802.11ax entirely.

I played through it with no problem. IIRC in-game it references keyboard controls in the tutorial area but it works just fine with the default controller configuration.

It’s an 8-10 hour game and it was a lot of fun.

I actually bought a new desktop since I got my LCD Deck … and then bought a new OLED Deck. I also have two laptops and a handful of old desktops that are set up for different uses. I may have a problem.

I bought Small Saga and played through it a day or two later (it’s an 8-10 hour game). It was pretty good. Not particularly challenging, but I enjoyed it.

I also got the Crypt of the Necrodancer DLC that I didn’t realize I hadn’t bought before. I spent maybe an hour playing it but I plan on going back to it again this weekend.

That’s all I bought, and I played it all! Now the other 1600 games already in my library…

Try changing the USB Dual Role Device setting in the BIOS from DRD to XHCI. The only thing I’ve tried plugging in to my Deck so far was a keyboard but it didn’t work until I made that change. This video shows you how to do it.

“Some Chinese company” is Beijing Oriental Electronics, one of the largest manufacturers of OLED and LCD displays in the world.

The BOE panels in the LE models have reports of dead pixels on some of them.

The Samsung panels in the non-LE models have reports of a green tint.

Neither is perfect. Just go with whatever one you think is best. There’s no sense in buying a limited edition solely because it’s limited, especially so if you like how the regular ones look more.

I’ve used headphones for a while on my LE and have no static on it.

Is it worth banning “in it worth it?” posts? Maybe we should make a post and ask.

What model do you have, and have you verified it’s the backlight and not a light reflection by observing it in a completely dark room?

I’ve only seen very expensive chargers not lower the power output when multiple devices are connected. That said, know that your laptop and Deck don’t HAVE to be supplied 65W and 45W. They can operate with less, they’ll just charge slower.

This charger, for example, does 65W/30W when only the USB C ports are in use, and that should be fine most of the time, as long as you make sure your laptop is plugged in to the main port.

In the case of the Deck, I’ve regularly used a 20W charger in the past while playing. It’s not great, but as long as I’m not playing very demanding games it can still charge slowly while in use.

Personally, I own a number of different USB C chargers so I took two of them and attached them to my desk. I then routed the cables up from a convenient location and now I’ve just got two charging cables available for laptop/Deck/Switch/whatever right at the desk where I sit the most. I find that much better than having a charger on the desk I can plug in to whenever I want, because the cables are already managed.

So there’s an audio system that only offers HDMI audio out and you want to connect that to your Deck to listen from there?

You’ll need either an HDMI capture card or a digital HDMI audio extractor (not sure if these exist). The capture card would capture the “video” and then you can just listen to the audio stream from that, or the digital HDMI audio extractor would connect to the HDMI and pass the audio through a USB connection to the Deck (TBH I only know of analog audio extractors that offer a 3.5mm audio jack and not a USB connection so the Deck wouldn’t even be needed for that).

Hopefully one day Valve will release a home console version too.

Well, technically…

I really hope they release a SteamOS installer/image to install on other devices and make them into Steam machines. I’ve got an old laptop with an i7-8750H and an RTX 2070 that already doesn’t have a purpose anymore outside of gaming, so being able to drop Windows and dedicate the hardware to Steam would be great. Opening up SteamOS to all hardware is sure to be a driver nightmare, though.

Between being able to dock the Deck, the existence of Steam Link/streaming from a PC, and the complexity/cost of releasing a simultaneous second console I’m sure Valve won’t be bothering with a home console anytime soon, unfortunately.

Personally, I can’t get used to playing FPSs on the Deck, even with gyro controls. I need a mouse and keyboard for that, which unless you’re docked and connected to a monitor doesn’t make for a very good gaming experience, IMO.

Also, higher-end games will perform poorly on the Deck (though often still playable). It’s not a powerhouse. It has a low resolution screen and a few other things that help performance, but if you’re specifically looking to play very demanding games you’ll be better off with a more powerful desktop.

Now, if you plan to play docked for keyboard/mouse games and you don’t mind things running at 30-40 FPS sometimes and you also really like the thought of playing games handheld, then the Deck is a good choice.

The biggest issue is that a Deck and a good gaming PC aren’t in the same price range. Often a powerful PC will start at twice the price of a Steam Deck.

The vast majority of them are fine. If they weren’t then Valve would issue a recall or stop using the BOE screens in the LE models. It’s also that nobody comes to reddit to praise that nothing is wrong with their device.

FWIW mine is perfect. The only issue was the A button squeaked for a while, but a few hours in a game where I had to press that button a lot seems to have worn it in and now it’s fine.

What model OLED do you have? The limited edition models have an OLED panel from BOE while the others have an OLED panel from Samsung. This has resulted in slight differences between those models.

While there are reports from some about dead pixels on the BOE panels and not on the Samsung panels, there seem to be reports of a greenish tint under certain conditions that I believe are from the Samsung panels.

Not sure if that’s related to this or if the BOE panel also suffers from the greenish tint, but it would be neat to see a close-up shot like this comparing the two OLED panels.

Is this the 3d flying shooter you’re looking for? If so, there’s also this which was the original game that the other one spun off of while it was still in development.

Any of them, really. Buying any display is a bit of a pixel lottery. That said, I’ve only heard reports of the limited edition OLED having dead or stuck pixels. Mine was fine, FWIW.

I had to disable 160 MHz mode on the wifi on my router before it could connect, but the screen is flawless and I’m not having any issues with the buttons or the headphone jack.

30W is fine. I’ve spent plenty of time tethered to a 20W charger playing mid to low power games. It charged very slowly, but it was fine.

Didn’t that light turn on when the batteries were getting low, so you actually DIDN’T want to see that LED because it meant you had to change your batteries soon?