05 grand prix is a dual din package so any dual din headunit will fit the opening.
You will need a iso adapter to match up with the internal hole layout of the dash. Metra part #95-3527 if you go for a single din you will need metra #99-3527.
05 grand prix is a dual din package so any dual din headunit will fit the opening.
You will need a iso adapter to match up with the internal hole layout of the dash. Metra part #95-3527 if you go for a single din you will need metra #99-3527.
Thats low coolant, air pocket, engine coolant sensor or thermostat stuck partially open or air intake temp sensor.
If it was full open you woud throw a p0125 code.
I dont know your location but it can also he caused by low outside temperature, ie. winter.
Fill and purge the system which will take care or low coolant, coolent blend and air pockets, if the code returns then go for sensors.
Thays a dual stage thermostat, 172f and 194f for full open.
If you are running water only then the code issue isnt thermostat sincejust runningthe motor will get yiu to operating temp, its sensor.
Theres a part called the belt tensioner in the serpentine belt system, keeps constant pressure on the belt while in motion,
Look up your make and model online, it will show you where it is and how to correctly remove the belt
25, nearly 26 years old boatcar, willing it bet its original rings, compression is shot to hell.
Motor is tired, your nearly ready for a rebuild, pull the block and have it overhauled, bring the motors horsepower back up to factory and the ac drag will disappear.
Bonus, you’ll get to drive that classic land yacht for another 25 years.
Check for frayed wires in the drivers side door loom, the rubber accordion looking thing going from the car to the door.
You have a short that makes the door locks fire, until you get it fixed pull fuses 19 - 23 out of the interior fuse panel, 2nd row fuses 6 thru 10 from the left, 4 yellow fuses, a blank space then 6 red ones, pull the first 5 reds.
Youll have to manually lock and unlock the doors after the fuses are out.
Torque converter is a non mechanical connection between the engine and transmisson that uses the movement of the transmission fluid inside it to drive the transmission.
Once it gets up to speed it will lock the two together, the solenoid unlocks it when you slow down.
If it doesn’t unlock it will cause the motor to stop turning when the transmission stops turning.
Unless you live in alaska then a 70/30 mix is fine.
Further south its nearly ideal year round.
Instead of taking it to a general repair shop take it to a transmission shop and have them charge the failing control solenoid since its not releasing the torque converter when you slow down.
Shop bombing around for a few minutes will never discover it as it takes longer droves to heat it up.
Mifht as well get them to do the shift solenoids while they are in there.
Dont flush a transmission.
Have the pan dropped and cleaned and the filter changed.
Flushing just stirs up crap in the pan and clogs the filter, dead transmission.
Add 20oz of a friction modifier to the transmission then top it up with the recommended fluid, adds back the “stiction” the old contaminated fluid had, keeps the worn bands and clutches working.
Turn to run, lisren for the pump, you can hit the purge valve on the fuel rail to dump the air out, looks like a bike tire valve.
Key to off and back to run, listen for the pump then start the engine.
Turn to run, lisren for the pump, you can hit the purge valve on the fuel rail to dump the air out, looks like a bike tire valve.
Key to off and back to run, listen for the pump then start the engine.
Easiest chexknit to have someone turn the wheels whith the motor on, fluid is under pressure at that point and will spray out of any pinholes you wouldn’t see with the engine off and the wheel static.
You need 2 torque wrenches.
Keep the 1/2, use a 3/8 adapter that’s your ft/lbs wrench.
Get a 1/4 drive in/lb wrench as well.
Truck already has garbage wind resistance so higher in the wind stream wont do much unless you’re raising it by changing the tire size.
Larger tires will lower the fuel economy and will have higher rolling resistance.
Puddle of what, oil, coolant, or transmission fluid?
If it’s oil the rear main seal is likely blown which for a vehicle that old is no surprise. It will need to be replaced.
Transmission fluid is a leaking pan, coolant that far back is a heater core or crack in the block to the water jacket.
A cars value is not it’s market value if you have no intention to sell it, it’s value it’s it’s cost to replace.
You cut losses when repair costs more than replace with similar type.
If it’s going to cost you $20k to rebuild after say a roll over accident then it’s time to replace.
If it’s going to cost you $2k for a transmission rebuild, you rebuild.
As they are all made in the same factory in China at this point its really not going to matter.
More than likely it has zero issues and carfax wants to save themselves money by inventing a phantom before making you an offer.
They pay you 3.8k instead of 8k, wash and wax, throw it on market for 12k and bank the difference.
Vital all terrain makes a steering coloum cover, tough as nails plate steel that hinges over the entire column and covers the lock cylinder but only for specific models and years.
https://preview.redd.it/e03m2wtpjb3c1.jpeg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a57c75a51eb8b6d9fe01dce426e94f415c964d77